What is the difference between an axe and a splitting maul

In the definition of the maul, we can say that it is a tool that uses to cut down the tree and big size log or wood. It is heavier than axe. At old days maul has a wedge-shaped head but modern creator upgrades it with conical or sub- wedge heads. Explicitly saying comes in two heads in which one is holding a sharpener axe head and the backside poll can be used as a hammer.

The blade length is also bigger than axe blade which able it to splitting heavy wood. In case it massive weights this requires more energy and strength to swing over targeted things. Besides the handle made of wood, fiberglass or plastic but one thing is very common in all maul that handles is closer to the round and straighter than that of axe.

There are 3 mains differences between the splitting axe and splitting maul. Below you will find each one with an in depth explanation.

From the above definition, you might understand that while an axe is light weighed, a maul is heavily weighted. This difference is weight is a double-edged sword that indicates weight.

As the axe is lighter so you can use it quickly without fatigue but many times it reduces the effectiveness of the tool. In contrast, a maul is slightly heavier jaws but this gives more efficiency in the division of the wood. Perhaps another difference between the two tools is head design.

The axe comes with the Sharpe blade and trellis head, which allows it to cut and split wood effectively. Trust us: you'll feel extremely frustrated if you attempt to use a felling axe for wood splitting purposes. As with any job, having the right tool makes all the difference in the world. The best axe for splitting wood is a either a splitting axe or a splitting maul.

What are the differences between these two types of tools? As we said earlier, a splitting axe is designed to split along the grain of wood to break the fibers apart, not cut them. It has a tapered head, generally weighing between 3 and 6 pounds.

When you swing the axe down, the force of the wedge causes the wood to split. Typically lighter than a splitting maul, a splitting axe can be used for a longer period of time. You can chose between a wooden handle or composite handle.

Composite splitting axes are lighter than wooden ones, as well as more durable; however, both are great options.

Many people love the feel of an old wooden axe! Ultimately, personal preference, as well as the size and quantity of the wood you plan to split, will determine which axe to use. For very large chunks of wood, the splitting maul is a great choice, as its heavier weight will give you additional power. As a result, you'll spend less time working! However, smaller users may find the heavier weight of the maul difficult to swing.

It's lighter, easier to swing and performs similarly to a splitting maul. The wood-cutting pros at Husqvarna recommend you have both, as together they form an excellent one-two punch for your wood splitting needs.

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Seeing twisting or knots on the logs usually determines problems, it means the grain is not strait, stopping the slice through force. Elm is nearly impossible to split by hand. Striking the wood with an axe with little force will usually determine the difficulty.

Little force meaning not enough for the axe to stick tight in the end grain. As has been commented, using the correct tool for the job is most important. He was most often a river driver whose responsibilities included freeing log jams with two or three tools he carried while being ready to maintain his balance and make it back to shore by rolling the logs under his feet to stay upright and not be killed.

He gave my dad some tips which had to be seen to be believed as to how effective they were. When splitting, the maul or splitting axe should be treated like a whip and hence a shaped handle is far superior for safety if one can be found for a maul. Usually because the maul handle has to be thicker and stronger it ends up being straight, the shaped handles are left to the cutting axes.

The lead hand stays fixed at the end, and the other hand slides to meet the lead hand increasing the arc of the swing, aiding in the physics involved, and combining with hip motion to snap the axe or maul downward and into the wood for splitting. I remember watching my 75 year old 80 pound grandmother who also had excellent technique swing a 6 pound maul and split an entire half cord of wood in just about 20 minutes! Accuracy is key. More work is saved by being accurate than any other.

Aim only for cracks that already exist. Like mentioned earlier in the forum, a slight twist just as the axe head impacts the wood pops the wood apart instead of sticking the head down in the separated pieces.

This technique takes lots of practice to perfect. Be careful as too much twist can make the strike glance away. The twist is subtle and only about 10 degrees at most. To witness a 90 plus year old man split with absolute ease among other things who had spent his life in the forest and also crafting the wood he harvested was an incredible experience.

So much masterful craftsmanship and arts get lost as we rush ahead with technology. If you need to strike the back of your axe or maul it should always be done using a softer material than the steel of the axe. Preferably wood. Safety first! Then teamwork! Even a blunt maul can take on a gnarly, deformed edge with too much misuse, and a messed up bit can lead to blade deflection and injury.

I was using a splitting maul? The head of the maul had grooves in it that I thought were meant to make splitting the wood into smaller pieces easier. The injury caused my fingernails to be sliced in the pattern of the grooves. I need to know what the name of this tool is. Does anyone know what tool I am referring to and what it is called. Thank you. My Dad showed me how to split wood when in my early teens. We had a couple of 30 foot Chinese Elm trees to work on, felled by high winds.

Some of the larger pieces took three wedges. Ax or Maul?? Well I use both. Ax for the smaller stuff, maul for the bigger stuff. We have a type of tree that grows here like weeds.

I have been told that it is called Manitoba Maple. It is very tough to split. The grain twists and is very fibrous, stringy. I have to use the maul, and usually have to pound it through with a sledge hammer. In closing I say what ever works for you. Work smarter not harder. Thank you for your words, I was confused by this article and others on using a maul instead of an ax. My entire life I have only ever seen axes used for splitting wood. My family and friends, in Europe, have used axes to split wood for centuries.

The one time I used a maul I failed miserably at it, probably because I was used to using an ax. You start on a wood block, not on the ground, then you pull the ax down to create as much velocity as possible. If the ax gets stuck, you lift it with the block of wood and drop it on the ax butt against the block, it MUST split.

The handle is usually made of plastic or wood. Its length is equal to or less than the length of your hand. It is convenient to chop wood with an ax and prepare wood chips for a long time without fatigue. It is light and will be able to cope with thin logs. But an ax will not be able to cope with a split of a thick log as easily as a maul. The maul has a wide and heavy wedge-shaped head. Usually its blade is not as sharp as an ax. A characteristic feature is that on the back side of the head there is a protrusion that can function as a hammer.

It weighs over 6 pounds , so the handle is made of wood or metal to hold a heavy head. Its length is always longer than your arm. A maul makes a crack in thick logs and splits it into smaller pieces. Its coarse blade helps to avoid chipping when working with hardwood. Of course with the help of the maul you can chop wood, but because of its weight it will bring quick fatigue. In the end, I can say one thing.

That for each task has its own tool. You need to understand what you are doing more often: chopping wood or splitting thick logs.